Bahia,
Brazil
by Joseph Schmitt
The state of Bahia in the northeast of
Brazil is home to that country’s first capital city,
Salvador, and is often referred to as the heart of Brazil.
Indigenous culinary influences include manioc (yucca),
corn, tropical fruits, and exotic herbs. Bahia’s
signature cuisine is called Comida Baiana. The main ingredients
in Comida Baiana are onion, garlic, cilantro, okra, shrimp,
fish, chicken, ginger, coconut milk, cashews, peanuts,
dendé oil, and hot little peppers called malaguetas.
The local dishes are, by nature, not terribly spicy in
the overwhelming sense. Rather, the mashed peppers often
used simply add a layer of depth and warmth to a dish.
This of course varies according to the chef and your personal
palate.
The most recognizable people in Bahia
are the Baianas, women in traditional muslin (usually
white) billowing petticoats and dresses with lace trim.
Accented with matching white turbans and gold jewelry
with seashell necklaces, these women are the keepers
of the flame, not only in the kitchen, but also throughout
daily life in Bahia. Just as Baianas are synonymous
with the cuisine of the region, the acarajé is
the signature food of the Baiana. This relatively simple
item, a deep-fried “fritter” made from mashed
beans and fried in dendé oil (palm oil) is all
about who makes it and what goes into it. Baianas de
Acarajé (the traditional women who prepare and
sell acarajé) can be found throughout Bahia,
from truck stops to street corners, outside nightclubs,
and near the beach. Some of the acarajé you may
want to try include: the vatapá, a paste of shrimp,
peanut, and coconut milk, and the caruru, which is something
of an okra stew. You’ll also find sun-dried shrimp
(which will raise the price nominally), as well as an
assortment of hot sauce and salsa. At around US$2, this
is a perfect snack anytime of day.
There are also many fine restaurants
where visitors can savor the wonderful cuisine of this
celebrated part of Brazil.
Sorriso da Dadá (Rua Frei Vicente,
05, Pelourinho. Tel: 71- 3321-9642) is located in the
historic neighborhood of Pelourinho, a colonial section
of Salvador with winding cobblestone streets and colorfully
painted buildings. Dadá is one of Salvador’s
most famous chefs and she’s created a miniature
culinary empire in part for her cooking, and a bit because
of her signature smile (sorriso)—thus the name.
Dadá’s international notoriety has led some
to argue that her flagship restaurant isn’t what
it used to be. During my recent visit, Dadá was
not on the premises, which is now often the case, but
I found the quaint restaurant to be very clean and charming.
To dine in this historic neighborhood, in this enchanting
building, is to take a journey back in time—even
the lace tablecloths found here today would have adorned
such tables many generations ago. The Xinxim de Galinha
served here is a generous chicken stew of garlic, lime
juice, peppers, cashews, peanuts, cilantro, ginger,
and coconut milk. The creamy texture, with a bit of
crunch and its subtle heat, makes this my favorite dish
from Bahia. It’s helpful to keep in mind that throughout
Bahia, main dishes usually serve two people nicely,
and rice and black beans are very much an accompanying
staple. Another condiment popular in Bahia and throughout
Brazil is Farofa, ground and toasted manioc (also known
as cassava or yucca) seasoned with salt, spices, and
smoked meats. Farofa’s grainy texture compliments
heavy sauces and goes great with black beans. Farofa
is served widely throughout Brazil in homes and restaurants
alike.
Yemanjá (Av. Otávio Mangabeira,
4.655, Jardim Armaçao. Tel: 55-71-3461-9010.
http://www.restauranteyemanja.com.br)
is a bright and lively restaurant with a nautical theme
and tropical atmosphere, located directly across from
a popular beach. On the afternoon of my visit, I found
the place to be bustling with native Brazilians and
very few foreigners, which is always a good sign. Yemanjá
offers delicious Moquecas (pronounced mo-ke-ka) which
are traditional fish stews with fresh herbs, spices,
coconut milk, urucum seeds, and dendé oil. There
are as many varieties of Moqueca as there are fish,
however, my favorite is the Moqueca de Camerao made
with shrimp in lieu of fish. Served with the standard
rice and farofa, the comforting mellow spice of these
stews is paired best with an ice-cold beer.
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While Comida Baiana is the main culinary
attraction in Salvador, there are abundant and diverse
options for the epicurean traveler. Mass migration to
Brazil did not stop with the abolition of slavery in 1888.
Over the last hundred-plus years, millions more have immigrated
to Brazil, mainly from Italy, Spain, Germany, and Japan.
Today, for example, Brazil is home to the largest population
of Japanese descendents outside of Japan. With such a
cornucopia of cultural influences, you’ll find plenty
of culinary choices to sample in Salvador.
By now you’re probably familiar
with churrascarias, the Brazilian-style steakhouses
where meat is served rodizio style, meaning that waiters
continually circulate with over a dozen cuts of garlic-marinated
meats and sausages, serving as much as you can handle.
Boi Preto (Black Bull) (Avenida Otávio Mangabeira,
Jardim Armação, Salvador. Tel: 71-3362-8844.
http://www.grupoboipreto.com.br)
is a local favorite with several locations across Brazil.
A focal point here is the massive “salad buffet”
stocked with fresh local treats such as hearts of palm
salad, squid, clams, and octopus. Arrive hungry and
remember not to fill up on everyone’s favorite,
Pão de Queijo (miniature cheese bread).
Maria Mata Mouro (Rua 3rd Ordem de São
Francisco, Pelourinho, Salvador. Tel: 71-3321-3929.
http://www.mariamatamouro.com.br)
is one of Pelourinho’s most elegant restaurants,
located in a centuries-old home. I found the quaint,
terraced garden courtyard in the back of the restaurant,
with only a dozen tables, to be a terrific spot for
a leisurely lunch. The menu is a tad eclectic with a
few traditional local offerings and some more recognizable
dishes like pasta and filet mignon. More playful dishes
include ostrich and mushroom risotto, and grouper in
a ginger sauce. With an afternoon of sightseing in store,
I went for a light lunch and enjoyed a generous shrimp
salad with fresh mango in a tangy vinaigrette, along
with a glass of crisp Pinot Grigio. The sun-kissed foliage
and the weather-beaten exposed brick called to mind
the Ivy restaurant back home in Los Angeles, only here
there were no paparazzi lurking in the bushes.
Sitting on the water, Trapiche Adelaide
(Praça do Tupinambás No.2. Tel: 71-3326-2211.
http://www.trapicheadelaide.com.br)
is a beautiful, upscale, and modern restaurant with
floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over the bay in
Salvador’s historic Cidade Baixa neighborhood.
The first restaurant in Salvador to offer high-end continental
cuisine in such a sleek setting, Trapiche Adelaide is
also a local favorite for sunset cocktails.
If all the rich Comida Baiana becomes
too much, you may want to try Sato Japanese (3959 Avenida
Sete de Setembro, Barra, Salvador. Tel: 71-3264-6464.
http://www.satorestaurante.com.br)
for some traditional fresh sushi. Right next door to
Sato is Pereira Restaurante (Avenida Sete de Setembro,
3959, Barra, Salvador. Tel: 71-3264-6464. http://www.pereirarestaurante.com.br),
offering an upscale bar menu of contemporary tapas with
an emphasis on pastas and seafood. Inside you’ll
find groups of beach-chic patrons chilling out to Bossa
Nova, and enjoying a cold draft beer or caipirinha.
The spacious patio overlooking the popular gay beach
of Barra is a also a perfect spot for late-afternoon
people watching.
Due in part to the weak dollar, upscale
restaurants can be rather pricy in Brazil. Dinner at
all of the above-mentioned restaurants is on par with
the United States, around US$30 per person and up (a
10% gratuity is usually included on the bill).
Meanwhile, tasty and affordable meals
are easy to find if you get off the tourist track and
follow the locals. Just about every bar on the street
serves decent food. What you’ll usually get is
rice and beans, with grilled chicken or beef, and maybe
a small salad for less than US$10. Throughout Bahia,
you’ll also find delectable and affordable salgados
(small pastries either baked or fried, with savory fillings
such as cheese, shrimp, and chicken) virtually everywhere,
from corner bars and street vendors to quaint Internet
cafés.
For travelers who enjoy spending their
time at the shore, beachfront restaurants with bars
(called Barracas) offer simple sandwiches and plate
lunches along with ice-cold beer. You’ll also find
wandering vendors at popular beaches with everything
a hungry beach-lover could want, including Queijo Fundido,
a salty and tender cheese, lightly grilled over hot
coals before your eyes; Sanduiche Natural (cold sandwiches);
and frozen fruit juice snacks.
If you develop a thirst while enjoying
the hot tropical sun, sipping cold coconut water straight
out of a coconut with the top chopped off is a great
way to stay hydrated. When you’ve finished your
drink, ask the vendor to open up the coconut and break
off a “scooper” so you can eat the coconut
jelly inside.
[Published:
April, 2008]
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