New
England Hideaways
Romantic New England
by Andrew Mersmann

The last year or so has been tough on
everyone, and my partner and I are no exception. Finding
idyllic hideaways that dont entail flights halfway
around the world and price tags that rival the national
debt, became a mission. In the great Northeast, there
is no shortage of picturesque inns, B&Bs, and lovely
hotels, but we were looking for unique getaway spots,
places to lose ourselves that didnt include corporate
color schemes or too many grandma tchotchkes. Quirky was
fine, cookie cutter not so much, and stuffy was a non-starter.
We knew enough about the gay faves like P-Town and Ogunquit,
but we wanted to make our own, less-traveled way, from
one cozy nook to the next. Places with fresh fish and
farm-to-table foods on the menu, long walks in woods or
along beaches on the agenda, and lazy mornings in bed
with coffee and no alarm clock were what we desired. Here
are a few gems we discovered in New England for when you,
too, want to get away with that special someone.
CONNECTICUT
Litchfield Hills
Meandering along the curvy wooded roads in and
around Litchfield. youll find numerous antique
shops and roadside cafés, even if youre
not shopping for the next great piece of art for over
the sofa. The town of Woodbury has dozens of
antique shops, and is closely followed by other towns
in the northwest Connecticut region.
Culturally, Litchfield has an array
of options, from a small but inspiring gallery scene
and the annual Litchfield Jazz Festival (this
year August 68, www.litchfieldjazzfest.com)
to the world-renowned, earth music innovator, the
Paul Winter Consort (www.livingmusic.com).
Winter and company have for the past 14 years been performing
solstice celebrations at New Yorks St. Patricks
Cathedral, and tour the world the rest of the year with
their Living Music concerts. Look locally
for small gigs at intimate venues. A stroll around the
bucolic grounds and galleries of Wisdom House (www.wisdomhouse.org),
an interfaith sanctuary with Peace Gardens and outdoor
labyrinth, is a wonderfully relaxing afternoon walk.
You do yourself a great disservice not
to take a romantic stroll or hike in this areas
great outdoors. Theres a nice, walkable chunk
of the Appalachian Trail here, and Litchfields
4,000-acre White Memorial Conservation Center
(www.whitememorialcc.org)
has 35 gorgeous miles of trails for hiking or unparalleled
cross country skiing in winter, as well as interpretive
trails in wetland marshes, a boating lake, and a quaint
nature museum. Plenty of ponds, lakes, rivers, and reservoirs
fill hilly vistas through your windshield as you set
out exploring. One of our favorite things to do is get
intentionally lost on back roads, then when we get hungry
or just feel our country drive has come to an end, flip
on that navigator of the new century, the GPS, and get
ourselves back to civilization. Being real estate junkies,
we find lots of homes to covet this way as well. Bringing
home some of the amazing native flowers is easy (even
simpler online) from Litchfields famous White
Flower Farm (www.whiteflowerfarm.com),
one of the nations foremost nurseries and horticultural
centers (also a great afternoons walk).
More commerce-driven afternoons can
be spent in Litchfields quaint downtown shopping
streets, as well as in neighboring villages in the county.
Clothing, art, crafts, and garden supply shops nestle
between brick-fronted cafés and pubs. Local products
and fine-flavored simple food are the hallmarks of Carole
Pecks Good News Cafe (694 Main Street So,
Woodbury. Tel: 203-266-4663. www.good-news-cafe.com)try
the organic roast chicken with buttermilk mashed potatoes.
It can be tough to get a table at contemporary West
Street Grill (43 West St, Litchfield. Tel: 860-567-3880.
www.weststreetgrill.net),
but if you can snag an outdoor spot, do, for people
watching and enjoying sun-dappled village greens overseen
by white-steepled churches. In spring and autumn, the
flora of the entire county is every amateur photographers
dream.
THE HIDEAWAY: WINVIAN
The history-making gay wedding featured in Martha
Stewart Weddings last June happened at the dreamy
Connecticut compound of eclecticism called Winvian.
We would hold our nuptials here in a heartbeat. This
is the most over-the-top property you might imagine
while still maintaining a cheeky elegance and never
veering into amusement park territory. On 113 acres
of pastoral meadow and woodlands, there are 18 cottages,
each created by a different architect and designer.
The building styles are wonderously diverse, from stone
lodge or red barn to Masonic temple and tree housetheres
even an entire helicopter fuselage inside one cottage,
and a stick beaver lodge over the bed in another. From
the interior of our deluxe cabin, Woodlands,
we could be forgiven for forgetting were not outside.
Full-size trees soar over the enormous, double high
room, the sinks are made from tree trunks, there is
a stone waterfall that separates the bed from the sunken
tub that overlooks the forest through a floor-to-ceiling
picture window. Glass everywhere lets in copious light,
and the two-sided stone fireplace emits a glow into
both living room and bedroom. Lock the door, Im
never leaving. The bar, stocked with the spirits we
requested before arrival, is not quite sustenance enough,
so we walk the winding paths to the restaurant. Several
rooms in the historic main house have a few tables each,
and the food is elegant and international, with three-course
menus (included in the rate, as is all food and drink,
picnics, cocktail hour, and afternoon tea). My handmade
pasta with diver scallops was superb, and the lamb duo
(loin chop and shank tartellette) was out of this world.
155 Alain White Rd, Morris, CT. Tel: 860-567-9600. All-inclusive
stays start at $1,250. www.winvian.com
MAINE
Kennebunkport
After a long weekend in Kennebunkport, I would
have thought Id grown barnacles behind my ears.
Super-nautical Kennebunkport (pronounced Kinny-Bunk
by Mainers) has more than its share of silly souvenir
shops with lobsters and lighthouses, but the people
couldnt be more welcoming, the food is outrageous,
and romance abounds. There is also lots of upscale,
boutiquing and antiquing to be done in the very walkable
downtown. A longer stroll along the rugged coast bordering
Ocean Avenue brings us past some of the most elaborate
seaside mansions imaginable, and they all pale in comparison
to the summer residence of George HW Bush and familytruly
one of the most magnificent residential properties in
the country. By the time we make it all the way out
to the Bush compound and back, our feet are aching and
stomachs rumbling.
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SLIDESHOW OF NEW ENGLAND

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The wind off the water and the sounds
of the harbor make menu choices a preordained matterit
is all seafood all the time, and particularly lobster.
Lunch under the low, poster and penant-festooned ceilings
at The Ramp (77 Pier Road, Cape Porpoise/Kennebunkport,
ME. Tel: 207-967-8500. www.pier77restaurant.com)
has to be a lobster roll, and it is not a disappointment.
Theres a reason this tiny, tucked away spot has
a line out the door. Dinner at Big Fish (17 Western
Ave, Kennebunk, ME. Tel: 207-967-1198) is a givenwithout
fail, every single local we spoke to insisted this is
the best food in Kinny. It is two small floors of a
former residence (there are only a few tables downstairs,
but try to snag one as the mood is better and view to
the open kitchen is great entertainment). Baked to order
truffled mac and cheese is flat out ridiculous, and
I want it every night. I wouldnt have ordered
the lobster fried rice unless three separate sources
recommended it. I made the right choice. I know lobster
is plentiful in Maine, but you just dont expect
the quantity of perfectly prepared crustacean to show
up in a dish like this. It was genius.
THE HIDEAWAY: HIDDEN POND
Theres something about the fairytale fantasy
of a Maine cottage in the woods to which people really
respond. Birdsong and butterflies in the meadow, a babbling
brook, perhaps a few deer (or moose) prancing through
the underbrush and wildflowers
at first glance,
this elegant enclave of cottages just up the road from
Goose Rocks Beach seems like the fairytale come true.
You aint seen nothing yet. Among 60 acres of balsam
and birch, 14 one- and two-bedroom cottages are a fiesta
of style and quirkiness once you open the door. Each
interior has been designed by a different Maine-based
artist, and their styles are eclectic to say the least.
Our cottage, called Day Dream, is a mix
of birch branches around mirrors and bed headboards
and rustic, natural touches with a counterpoint of an
ultra-modern galvanized steel wall and a green neon
tube running vertically up another wall. Other cottages
have contemporary or classic themes, from East Indian
to Euro-chic, but the common denominators are stone
fireplaces, sexy outdoor showers, Frette linens, nicely
sized private kitchens (in which you can have cooking
classes or have a private chef if you dont want
to do your own thing), and gargantuan screened porches
with overgrown daybeds, rockers, tables, and soft blankets
for napping. The resort also has a small gym (the cardio
cottage), swimming pool, bicycles, and pick-your-own
organic garden if youd like to bring a bouquet
back to your digs. Every morning is like Christmas as
we wait for my favorite service detail among so many
brilliant service examples. Delivered to our door, hanging
from a special hook, is a thermos of hot coffee, fresh-squeezed
juice, and just-baked breads and pastries each morning
with the newspaper rolled up alongside. I knew I was
going to like the couple that owns Hidden Pond the moment
I met them. When we walked into the Back Porch Lounge
and both Tim and Juan were drinking Makers Mark
Manhattans (my drink). We spent a terrific evening chatting
about the property, the surrounding area, and their
wedding at the resort two weeks before opening last
year. 354 Goose Rocks Rd, Kennebunkport, ME. Tel: 207-967-9050.
Cottages start at $425. www.hiddenpondmaine.com
MASSACHUSETTS
Boston
I had never spent time in Boston, so the opportunity
to enjoy a long weekend strolling the tree-lined brick
streets of the picturesque South End seemed like a big
win. The gay community in town has become so integrated
over the past few years, a Bostonian friend told
me. Go into any gay bar and itll have a
good percentage of women and always some straight people
too. That happy harmony seems to pervade the entire
South End with its very specific architecture (the nations
largest collection of Victorian, brick, bow-front homes
of five to six stories with ornate wrought-iron railings
on the stoops). The Tremont Street corridor is
filled with unique boutique shops, resto/bars (local
laws require food to be served to procure a liquor license,
so there are no solely spirit-serving bars), and bistros
bustling with al fresco diners during nice weather.
Vintage clothing, wine, cheeses, housewares, décor,
and a lovely large smattering of rainbow flags draw
an artsy crowd of visitors, matching the creative types
who are resident here. Its got a very bohemian
feel that is incredibly welcoming.
Lunch at Stephis on Tremont
(571 Tremont St, Boston, MA. Tel: 617-236-2063.
www.stephisontremont.com)
is asserted as the best bet along these lanes. The signature
salads and comfort food, like cheddar-stuffed meatloaf
or three-cheese mac, are what brings neighborhood diners
back again and again. Sitting in the big leather booths,
we see lots of giant burgers being relished, so I order
the same. A sirloin classic, it is huge and juicy with
slab bacon, sautéed mushrooms, and caramelized
onions. Definitely a multi-napkin meal. There are same-sex
couples and groups of laughing friends, plus a few business
types all enjoying the dark table, wood-hued, clubby
atmosphere. Dinner is a jaunt to the recently opened
W Hotel with the new favorite table to secure in town
at Market by Jean-Georges Vongerichten (W
Boston, 100 Stuart St, Boston, MA. Tel: 617-310-6790.
www.marketbyjgboston.com).
Intended to highlight the best dishes this super-chef
has created, the international menu features classics
that JG fans will fondly recognize. The rice cracker-crusted
tuna with citrus-chili emulsion is perfection, soy-glazed
short ribs with apple-jalapeno puree and savory rosemary
crumbs is stick-to-your-ribs wonderful, and the service
(from what our gaydar tells us is a very gay staff)
is spot-on. The assuredness and flair of this restaurant
makes it, currently, the talk of Beantown. A nighttime
stroll over to Boston Common and the Public Garden makes
a perfect, post-prandial meander.
THE HIDEAWAY:
CLARENDON SQUARE INN
The best part of a B&B experience is feeling
like youre staying in the home of friends
but
Ive rarely found that the B&B-owning friends
and I have much in common, and certainly not in decorating
sense. Theres not a doily to be found in this
hidden, hip, boutique inn. Owner Stephen and his partner,
Bobby, are extra-gracious hosts with advice and suggestions,
but none of the fawning found around so many B&B
breakfast tables. This six-story brick townhouse has
no sign out front (I later saw a tiny brass plaque by
the lower door). Two rooms or one luxury suite per floor,
an outdoor dining patio, and a hot tub deck on the roof
make each well-styled tableau feel personal. The modern
art, glass sculpture, and bookshelves filled with travel
books and Eastern tomes feel worldly and expansive instead
of claustrophobic, as other tiny inns can seem. The
room on the top floor is masculine and contemporary
with saturated earthtones and a white marble fireplace.
The Clarendon Suite is apartment-sized and features
architectural details (all lovingly restored/overseen
by Stephen in a strip-to-the-studs rehab) like barrel
vaulted mahogany ceilings, free-standing soaking tub,
and eight-foot walk-in shower. This is definitely a
spot where you would hang the Do Not Disturb
sign on the knob
but nobody here will disturb you
anyway. 198 West Brookline St, Boston MA. Tel: 617-536-2229.
Rooms from $115. www.clarendonsquare.com
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