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DUBLIN
by Thomas Mizer
There is no better symbol of the sea change
in Irish society than Dublin’s Quartier Bloom centerpiece,
artist John Byrne’s “Dublin’s Last Supper”,
a whimsical take on Da Vinci’s iconic painting with
local residents portraying the apostles. Installed in
2004, following a decade of unparalleled economic growth
and immigration, the photographic mural features a surprisingly
multi-cultural Ireland that is a far cry from the old
image of stout lads with Guinness-reddened cheeks. While
there will always be a place for a football jersey and
some classic Irish soda bread at the supper, today’s
Dublin is home to a stylish new vision of European union.
Sophisticated, eclectic, and international,
Dublin’s changing character is immediately apparent
in the range of accommodations rising around the city.
One of the most recent additions, the Radisson SAS Royal
Hotel (Golden Lane. Tel: 011-353-1-898-2900. http://www.dublin.radissonsas.com),
is a winning combination of sleek boutique design and
name-brand comforts. To Americans, the Radisson label
might conjure images of airport lounges and turnpike
exits, but their European hotels are in a different
league; the SAS Radissons are high-end properties, replete
with luxurious amenities and attentive service. Ideally
located on a quiet street just behind the major city
center attractions, the hotel’s rooms are large
(a bathtub seemingly built for three) and decorated
in a delicately chic palette: muted slates, dark wood,
and the soft brownish-purples of the Irish Burren. While
comfortable on a global stage, the Royal takes great
pleasure in asserting its Gaelic pride. Particularly
fascinating, the Vintage Room, an intimate space carved
out of the lobby and bordered by a glass wall inscribed
with the Irish Declaration of Independence, features
a connoisseur’s menu of rare vintage whiskeys served
in fine Waterford crystal. This, it seems to say, is
the best of Ireland.
Those who prefer their accommodations
to be a little flashier should experience The Dylan
Hotel (Eastmoreland Place. Tel: 011-353-1-660-3000.
http://www.dylan.ie),
Dublin’s latest entry in the hip, small hotel sweepstakes.
Dripping red fixtures and candlelit alcoves lead to
an entirely white restaurant and a see-and-be-seen bar.
Tucked ten minutes south of the city center on a residential
street, the Dylan is equal parts funky riot, flirty
sex appeal, and aloof gamesmanship. The genuine, appealing
surprise of the property, however, is that the guest
rooms turn out to be soothing and comfortable while
still attentive to modern design and technology (note
the branded iPods docked and loaded with the hotel’s
music mix).
Having led the hotel chic charge a decade
ago, The Clarence Hotel (6-8 Wellington Quay. Tel: 011-353-1-407-0800.
http://www.clarence.ie)
remains one of Dublin’s star attractions. Owned
by hometown heroes Bono and The Edge, The Clarence combines
simple elegance, contemporary design, and rock god buzz,
all at the center of the hottest neighborhood for clubbing.
Stop by during the daylight hours and the hotel’s
Octagon Bar has a sedate country house charm; return
at night and it’s packed with a who’s who
crowd as glittering as the lights reflected in the nearby
River Liffey.
An influx of fashionistas and business
moguls in recent years has brought new excitement to
Dublin’s culinary scene. The fresh and direct tastes
of Fallon & Byrne (11-17 Exchequer Street. Tel:
011-353-1-472-1000. http://www.fallonandbyrne.com)
have deservedly captured the spotlight. Up a wide staircase
from the market below, chef Robbie Burns presides over
a large, open dining room that is as elegant yet unpretentious
as the food being served. A light, crisp Caesar salad
is refreshingly easy on dressing to let the greens shine
through, the roast chicken stuffed with sun-dried tomato
and feta remains tender and moist to the last lightly-seasoned
bite, and the ginger ice cream served alongside a chocolate
and pear tart is sweet, spicy, and addictive.
At the other end of the price spectrum,
but no less indicative of the turn toward diversity
and fresh ingredients, Lemon Crepe and Coffee Co. (66
South William Street. Tel: 011-353-1-672-9044) is a
friendly little coffee house in the middle of the Temple
Bar madness that serves savory and sweet crepes, perfect
for a light morning treat or a break from an afternoon’s
exploration. Locals swear by the simple, namesake creation:
a thin buttery pancake wrapped around lemon and sugar.
If you are determined to sample traditional
Irish fare but want to maintain your diva image, head
back to the Royal Hotel where their brand-new Sure Bar
(Golden Lane. Tel: 011-353-1-898-2900) attracts guests
and Dubliners with an upscale take on pub favorites.
Their fresh fish and chips hits all the deliciously
salty notes without being weighed down in batter. A
mischievous list of Gaelic Coffees—the “Creole
Coconut” replaces whiskey with coconut rum and
vanilla sugar—proves that there is a cocktail bar
twist for even the oldest standard. Of course, perfectly-poured
pints of Guinness can be enjoyed while lounging in the
spacious, civilized surroundings.
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